What to See at Mojave National Preserve

A highlights guide to the desert between Barstow and Vegas.

By Chris Hayworth, Nestward

Mojave National Preserve is 1.6 million acres of California desert with almost no crowds, no entrance fee, and no gas stations inside it. It rewards people who plan a little: you'll get singing sand dunes, lava tubes, Joshua tree forests, and some of the darkest night skies in the lower 48. It is empty and remote in the best way, which also means you're on your own out there.

Kelso Dunes, the headline act

If you see one thing here, make it the Kelso Dunes. The hike to the high point is about three miles round trip, and the distance is deceptive. The dunes look closer than they are, and the last stretch is soft sand that takes real effort. The payoff is worth it: from the top you get a 360-degree desert view, and on a dry day, sliding back down can make the sand "boom" with a low rumble.

Go early morning or near sunset, both for the light on the ripples and to dodge the heat. Summer surface temperatures climb past 120°F, and the trail has no shade, so this is a cool-season or dawn outing.

Lava tubes, cinder cones, and Joshua trees

The Cinder Cones are a field of old volcanoes, and you can walk into a Lava Tube where a shaft of light beams down through a hole in the ceiling, a genuinely strange, photogenic spot. The access road is rough dirt, so check conditions and clearance before committing.

• Teutonia Peak Trail: about four miles round trip through one of the densest Joshua tree forests anywhere, ending at a summit with wide views over Cima Dome.
• Wander through the Joshua trees: the Cima Dome stands hold a different species than the ones at Joshua Tree National Park, and they grow thick here.
• Visit a Lava Tube: short walk, a ladder down, and that famous beam of light at the right time of day (roughly late morning).

Short hikes and a piece of history

Not everything requires a long slog. A few worthwhile stops:

• Hike the Rings Loop: at Hole-in-the-Wall, a short, fun route where you climb through a rhyolite canyon using iron rings bolted into the rock. Kids who like a little scramble love it.
• Visit Kelso Depot: the restored 1920s Spanish-revival railroad depot is the preserve's signature building and main visitor center. Note: it has been closed for renovations, so check status before you count on it for water, restrooms, or info.
• Behold the Granite Mountains: dramatic granite spires best enjoyed from the viewpoints; much of the range is a protected research reserve.

The desert at night

Mojave is one of the best stargazing spots within a few hours of a major city. There's almost no light pollution, and on a clear, moonless night the Milky Way is obvious to the naked eye. If you can, time a visit around the new moon and bring a red flashlight to keep your night vision. Pair it with a clear evening at Kelso Dunes and you've got the whole day.

Know before you go

The preserve's remoteness is the catch. A few real-world logistics:

• No fuel inside the preserve. Fill your tank in Barstow, Baker, or near Las Vegas before you enter. It's roughly 90 miles across either way.
• Bring more water than you think. There are very few services, and cell coverage is patchy to nonexistent.
• Open 24/7, free. Trails, roads, and campgrounds are open year-round with no entrance fee.
• Best months are October through April. Spring can bring wildflowers; summer days regularly top 100°F, so head to the higher Mid-Hills and New York Mountains if you visit then.